Previously, women worldwide were subjected to the dictatorship of straight hair and the influence of large cosmetic companies. The dominant model almost exclusively celebrated white Western women with straight hair, without offering alternative representations. The hegemony of this Western model in the media and business world was so strong that the cosmetic industry followed suit, encouraging women with curly to kinky hair to transform their natural texture rather than embrace their beauty. Even African American cosmetic laboratories adopted this path, convinced that this was what consumers with kinky hair were seeking.

As a result, efforts were made to relax and deeply alter the structure of textured hair without any concern for its long-term preservation or the impact of these practices on the physical and mental health of those who underwent them. Moreover, the main stakeholders of these brands were rarely the women affected by this issue.

It took these very consumers coming together, sharing information from their personal experiences, and voicing their discomfort for the change to begin at the grassroots level.

This led to the rise of the DIY cosmetic movement: when they couldn’t find brands that respected their needs, these women started creating their own products. These homemade cosmetics, when more sophisticated than a simple oil bath, were free of many common ingredients in the industry.

When natural haircare brands were eventually created based on this same observation, they were often led by women with textured hair who shared the same desires as their future customers. These brands typically adopted an ethical approach, banning entire categories of ingredients that we’ll explain here:

1. Endocrine Disruptors

The most well-known endocrine disruptor is paraben (specifically ingredients with the suffix “paraben”). However, many other ingredients fall into this category. Notable examples include phenoxyethanol, phthalates (or benzophenone), and formaldehydes. These substances are used as preservatives to kill potential bacteria that could develop in products—a crucial function for the product’s longevity.

However, it has been discovered that these preservatives may have long-term effects on the human hormonal system. It’s not a single application that causes these effects, but these ingredients are still widely present in the cosmetics industry. The “cocktail effect” of regular exposure over several years can lead to serious health issues, such as early puberty in children and thyroid disorders.

For this reason, it is recommended to avoid them. While they haven’t been banned, they have been removed from many formulations since this information came to light.

b) Irritating or Allergenic Preservatives

The cosmetic industry must ensure the stability of its products. However, many preservatives have been flagged for their irritating properties. Notably, ingredients with the prefixes methylchloro, methyliso, or triclos have been recently removed from formulations to avoid these effects, which, although rare, can be quite bothersome.

c) Comedogenic Agents:
Silicones and Mineral Oils

Silicones (identified by the suffix -eticone) have long been used in cosmetics for their emollient and lubricating properties. Although they help smooth the hair cuticle, they have the drawback of being comedogenic, meaning they are hard to remove. Initially, silicones give the hair a shiny and silky appearance, but over time, they weaken and suffocate it.

They are often replaced by quaternary ammoniums, which have similar properties, but these are also frequently avoided.

Similarly, mineral oils (such as paraffin, mineral oil, and petrolatum) are widely used as chemical diluents and for their lubricating properties. However, they are derived from petrochemical products and also have comedogenic effects. They suffocate the hair fiber without providing real hydration or nourishment. In short, they add shine without offering any true benefits. Best to avoid these as well.

d) Sulfates
Used for their cleansing and foaming properties, some sulfates—such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)—also have the tendency to dry out the hair. This is why they are not recommended for curly to coily hair textures, which need to retain more sebum due to a natural lack of it.

Not all sulfates are equally harsh, but it’s best to avoid them, especially when they are present in large quantities in the formula. Sometimes it’s necessary to use a small amount or find alternatives, particularly for the foaming effect, which users often expect, even though foam does not indicate cleanliness. Sulfate-free products tend to foam less.

e) Alcohols: Sometimes Harmful, Often an Ally

Many people believe that ingredients labeled as alcohols are harmful to hair. However, this is not entirely true, except for certain types such as alcohol denat and ethyl alcohol. These are used as solvents and serve a purpose, but they tend to dry out the hair fiber, making them unsuitable for textured hair.

On the other hand, fatty alcohols are used to smooth the cuticle and soften the hair fiber, having a beneficial effect instead. As a result, they are not among the ingredients avoided by natural brands (e.g., cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol).

You now know the categories of ingredients to watch out for and their names in INCI lists, allowing you to make informed choices when selecting cosmetics. The INCI list is the standardized international naming system for ingredients.

Within the European Union, ingredients must be listed in descending order of concentration, from the highest to the lowest. Therefore, the ingredients mentioned first are the most prevalent in the formula, while those at the end of the list are present in very small amounts (less than 0.05%). It is important to note that North American regulations are more lenient regarding ingredient disclosure, and preservatives are not always listed. This puts European brands at a disadvantage on composition evaluation apps such as Yuka.

The post Analyzing product formulations appeared first on Frenchica: Clean products for textured hair made in France.

The good news is that things have changed, thanks to people that focused on building that reality for customers. Brands have been created, accessories too. But not enough for the huge quantity of underserved consumers that need a routine for their coily hair.
But here are some tips about how to take proper care of curls, in a simple and practical way:

• The importance of a gentle cleansing for coily hair

Soft cleansing is essential for maintaining the health and softness of type 4 coily hair. This hair type thrives on moisture, but it can easily become dry and prone to breakage if not handled gently. Choosing the right shampoo is critical. For coily hair, opt for sulfate-free shampoos, as sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and frizz. Similarly, avoid silicones, which can build up on the hair over time, weighing down curls and preventing moisture from penetrating the strands. Instead, look for shampoos rich in natural, raw ingredients like aloe vera, coconut oil, shea butter, or honey. These ingredients associated to soft surfactant (glucosides, sodiums…) gently cleanse while hydrating the hair, keeping curls soft and defined.

No no-poo but low-poo!

While the no-poo method (using conditioner or co-washing instead of shampoo) is popular, it should not completely replace cleansing with shampoo. Over-relying on no-poo methods can lead to product buildup on the scalp, clogging follicles and hindering healthy hair growth. A balanced routine that includes soft, sulfate-free shampoos ensures the scalp remains clean and the hair retains its natural oils. For type 4 hair, a cleansing schedule of once every 7–10 days works well, alternating between shampoo and co-washing as needed. Always follow up with a deep conditioner to lock in moisture and maintain the elasticity and softness of the curls.

• How to choose between a simple conditioner and a deep conditioner for coily hair

Choosing between a conditioner and a deep conditioner depends on your hair’s specific needs, or past habits: if you dyed or permed your hair for example. Both products are essential for maintaining healthy hair, but they serve slightly different purposes. A regular conditioner is a lightweight, everyday product designed to provide basic hydration and detangling benefits after shampooing. It works by coating the outer layer of your hair to reduce friction and smooth cuticles. If your hair is generally healthy and you’re looking for quick, daily manageability, a regular conditioner is ideal. It’s best for those who wash their hair frequently and want a quick solution to keep strands soft and tangle-free. Look for conditioners with ingredients like glycerin, panthenol, or natural oils for a nourishing touch without weighing the hair down.

A deep conditioner, is a more intensive treatment designed to penetrate the hair shaft and repair damage. It’s perfect for addressing specific issues like dryness, breakage, or loss of elasticity. For those with coily, curly, or chemically-treated hair, deep conditioning is essential to restore moisture and strengthen strands. Ingredients such as shea butter, keratin, or hydrolyzed proteins are common in deep conditioners to rebuild and protect hair structure.
Choose a deep conditioner if your hair feels extremely dry, brittle, or has been exposed to harsh styling tools or treatments. Use it weekly or twice a month, depending on your hair’s needs. Let it sit for 15–30 minutes under a shower cap or heat for maximum effectiveness.
Otherwise, opt for a regular conditioner for weekly coily hair routine. You can reach for a deep conditioner when your hair requires a more targeted, restorative boost. Both products can work together in your routine to ensure optimal hair health. As for the shampoo, be cautious about the formulas of your product, have coily hair makes your needs specific.

• Daily haircare for coily hair

A consistent daily haircare routine is essential for maintaining the health, softness, and definition of coily hair. Type 4 hair is prone to dryness and breakage, so incorporating hydrating and protective steps is key.

Morning Routine: Hydration and Styling
Start your day by hydrating your hair. Use a spray bottle with water or a hydrating mist to lightly dampen your curls. Follow with a leave-in conditioner or a hydrating milk containing natural moisturizing ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, shea butter, or avocado oil. These ingredients provide hydration, seal in moisture, and promote curl definition.

When choosing between a liquid leave-in and a hydrating cream, consider your hair’s density and porosity. For fine or low-porosity hair, a lightweight liquid product is ideal, as it won’t weigh down your curls or cause buildup. For thicker or high-porosity hair, a creamy product works better, providing deeper moisture and reducing frizz.

To style, apply a curl cream or gel with a clean formula, free of sulfates and silicones. Focus on evenly distributing the product throughout your hair, either with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, to enhance curl definition and reduce frizz. The use of a proper comb will also help prevent the hair breakage!

Night Routine: Protect and Maintain
At night, protect your curls to retain moisture and prevent breakage. Use a satin or silk scarf, bonnet, or du-rag to minimize friction between your hair and pillowcase. These materials help maintain your style and prevent dryness. Alternatively, sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase if you prefer not to cover your hair.

For better protection, consider making loose protective braids or twists that will help you gain time in your styling the morning after. Or gather your hair at the top of your head (pineapple method). This prevents tangling and maintains curl definition overnight. And now, the last stpe to your coily hair routine!

• The power of oils to keep coily hair moisturized.

One thing has to be clear, oil alone is never going to hydrate hair, because oil is greasy and doesn’t contain water. Yet combined it to the use of a haircare product containing water help seal the hydration. Sealing hydration is a crucial additional step in maintaining soft, moisturized, and healthy coily hair. After applying a leave-in or cream, use an oil to lock in the moisture and protect your strands. Natural oils like jojoba oil, argan oil, avocado oil, or castor oil are excellent choices. Jojoba oil closely mimics the scalp’s natural sebum, helping to balance scalp health. Argan oil provides lightweight nourishment and shine. For thicker, drier hair, heavier oils like castor oil or shea butter oil are better suited to seal in moisture and reduce breakage.

To apply, warm a small amount of oil in your hands and distribute it evenly through your hair, focusing on the ends, which are most prone to dryness and splitting. Taking inspiration from LCO method (Liquid, Cream, Oil), applying oil right after your hydrating milk or cream ensures that the hydrating product penetrates the strands before the oil forms a protective barrier.

Don’t forget the scalp

Massaging oil into your scalp can also promote circulation, nourish the roots, and help prevent dandruff or flakiness. Incorporating oil into your routine strengthens your hair, enhances its elasticity, and minimizes breakage, resulting in healthier, more resilient curls.

After you do that, don’t try to have the exact same haircut or look as the fancy influencer or star that you see online. You are unique, your curls are yours and your look should be personal. As long as you own your curls, accept them and take the necessary time to care about them, you are going to feel and look great. Start loving your coily hair if you haven’t already and choose the right products and coily hair routine that your crown deserves. We will help you do that but don’t forget:

Remember:

1- Cleanse every week
2- Condition or deep condition depending on your hair needs
3- Moisturize your coils
4- And seal the hydration with an oil from hair to scalp

At night: Protect your hair at night with satin or silk

In general: Choose clean brands with healthy natural ingredients, free from damaging chemicals

The post Routine for coily hair in 4 steps appeared first on Frenchica: Clean products for textured hair made in France.