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24 January 2025
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When you’re a young black girl growing in a predominantly white country, you have to deal with not seeing yourself portrayed in the media. And when it’s the case, it is rarely in a positive way. So having to find a routine for coily hair was never easy throughout time, especially given the fact that there were no product created by black people who could understand better the specific pain points.
The good news is that things have changed, thanks to people that focused on building that reality for customers. Brands have been created, accessories too. But not enough for the huge quantity of underserved consumers that need a routine for their coily hair.
But here are some tips about how to take proper care of curls, in a simple and practical way:
- The importance of a gentle cleansing for coily hair
Soft cleansing is essential for maintaining the health and softness of type 4 coily hair. This hair type thrives on moisture, but it can easily become dry and prone to breakage if not handled gently. Choosing the right shampoo is critical. For coily hair, opt for sulfate-free shampoos, as sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and frizz. Similarly, avoid silicones, which can build up on the hair over time, weighing down curls and preventing moisture from penetrating the strands. Instead, look for shampoos rich in natural, raw ingredients like aloe vera, coconut oil, shea butter, or honey. These ingredients associated to soft surfactant (glucosides, sodiums…) gently cleanse while hydrating the hair, keeping curls soft and defined.
No no-poo but low-poo!
While the no-poo method (using conditioner or co-washing instead of shampoo) is popular, it should not completely replace cleansing with shampoo. Over-relying on no-poo methods can lead to product buildup on the scalp, clogging follicles and hindering healthy hair growth. A balanced routine that includes soft, sulfate-free shampoos ensures the scalp remains clean and the hair retains its natural oils. For type 4 hair, a cleansing schedule of once every 7–10 days works well, alternating between shampoo and co-washing as needed. Always follow up with a deep conditioner to lock in moisture and maintain the elasticity and softness of the curls.
- How to choose between a simple conditioner and a deep conditioner for coily hair
Choosing between a conditioner and a deep conditioner depends on your hair’s specific needs, or past habits: if you dyed or permed your hair for example. Both products are essential for maintaining healthy hair, but they serve slightly different purposes. A regular conditioner is a lightweight, everyday product designed to provide basic hydration and detangling benefits after shampooing. It works by coating the outer layer of your hair to reduce friction and smooth cuticles. If your hair is generally healthy and you’re looking for quick, daily manageability, a regular conditioner is ideal. It’s best for those who wash their hair frequently and want a quick solution to keep strands soft and tangle-free. Look for conditioners with ingredients like glycerin, panthenol, or natural oils for a nourishing touch without weighing the hair down.
A deep conditioner, is a more intensive treatment designed to penetrate the hair shaft and repair damage. It’s perfect for addressing specific issues like dryness, breakage, or loss of elasticity. For those with coily, curly, or chemically-treated hair, deep conditioning is essential to restore moisture and strengthen strands. Ingredients such as shea butter, keratin, or hydrolyzed proteins are common in deep conditioners to rebuild and protect hair structure.
Choose a deep conditioner if your hair feels extremely dry, brittle, or has been exposed to harsh styling tools or treatments. Use it weekly or twice a month, depending on your hair’s needs. Let it sit for 15–30 minutes under a shower cap or heat for maximum effectiveness.
Otherwise, opt for a regular conditioner for weekly coily hair routine. You can reach for a deep conditioner when your hair requires a more targeted, restorative boost. Both products can work together in your routine to ensure optimal hair health. As for the shampoo, be cautious about the formulas of your product, have coily hair makes your needs specific.
- Daily haircare for coily hair
A consistent daily haircare routine is essential for maintaining the health, softness, and definition of coily hair. Type 4 hair is prone to dryness and breakage, so incorporating hydrating and protective steps is key.
Morning Routine: Hydration and Styling
Start your day by hydrating your hair. Use a spray bottle with water or a hydrating mist to lightly dampen your curls. Follow with a leave-in conditioner or a hydrating milk containing natural moisturizing ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, shea butter, or avocado oil. These ingredients provide hydration, seal in moisture, and promote curl definition.
When choosing between a liquid leave-in and a hydrating cream, consider your hair’s density and porosity. For fine or low-porosity hair, a lightweight liquid product is ideal, as it won’t weigh down your curls or cause buildup. For thicker or high-porosity hair, a creamy product works better, providing deeper moisture and reducing frizz.
To style, apply a curl cream or gel with a clean formula, free of sulfates and silicones. Focus on evenly distributing the product throughout your hair, either with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, to enhance curl definition and reduce frizz. The use of a proper comb will also help prevent the hair breakage!
Night Routine: Protect and Maintain
At night, protect your curls to retain moisture and prevent breakage. Use a satin or silk scarf, bonnet, or du-rag to minimize friction between your hair and pillowcase. These materials help maintain your style and prevent dryness. Alternatively, sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase if you prefer not to cover your hair.
For better protection, consider making loose protective braids or twists that will help you gain time in your styling the morning after. Or gather your hair at the top of your head (pineapple method). This prevents tangling and maintains curl definition overnight. And now, the last stpe to your coily hair routine!
- The power of oils to keep coily hair moisturized.
One thing has to be clear, oil alone is never going to hydrate hair, because oil is greasy and doesn’t contain water. Yet combined it to the use of a haircare product containing water help seal the hydration. Sealing hydration is a crucial additional step in maintaining soft, moisturized, and healthy coily hair. After applying a leave-in or cream, use an oil to lock in the moisture and protect your strands. Natural oils like jojoba oil, argan oil, avocado oil, or castor oil are excellent choices. Jojoba oil closely mimics the scalp’s natural sebum, helping to balance scalp health. Argan oil provides lightweight nourishment and shine. For thicker, drier hair, heavier oils like castor oil or shea butter oil are better suited to seal in moisture and reduce breakage.
To apply, warm a small amount of oil in your hands and distribute it evenly through your hair, focusing on the ends, which are most prone to dryness and splitting. Taking inspiration from LCO method (Liquid, Cream, Oil), applying oil right after your hydrating milk or cream ensures that the hydrating product penetrates the strands before the oil forms a protective barrier.
Don’t forget the scalp
Massaging oil into your scalp can also promote circulation, nourish the roots, and help prevent dandruff or flakiness. Incorporating oil into your routine strengthens your hair, enhances its elasticity, and minimizes breakage, resulting in healthier, more resilient curls.
After you do that, don’t try to have the exact same haircut or look as the fancy influencer or star that you see online. You are unique, your curls are yours and your look should be personal. As long as you own your curls, accept them and take the necessary time to care about them, you are going to feel and look great. Start loving your coily hair if you haven’t already and choose the right products and coily hair routine that your crown deserves. We will help you do that but don’t forget:
Remember:
1- Cleanse every week
2- Condition or deep condition depending on your hair needs
3- Moisturize your coils
4- And seal the hydration with an oil from hair to scalp
At night: Protect your hair at night with satin or silk
In general: Choose clean brands with healthy natural ingredients, free from damaging chemicals
Cheers,
Bilguissa